Parts are frame-specific. Order the wrong one and you find out Friday night with the trailer loaded. This page covers what we build now, what we still stock parts for, and the fastest way to be sure you are getting the right piece.
Current models
- Fanatic
- Fanatic ST
- Fanatic Champ
- Fanatic Jr Sportsman Champ
These come as Frame Only, Standard, F1 and F1 Jr packages, in JR1, JR2 and Adult sizing. Frame only starts at $1,200 and a complete kart runs up to $4,700 depending on model and package. See complete chassis.
Older frames we still stock parts for
- Vector
- Impulse
- Faktor
- Mission
If you bought a used kart and it is one of these, you are not out of luck. We keep parts for them. You may also hear people at the track mention Tempest, Tempest V2, AV2 or Quantum. Those names come up in the karting community around older Millenium equipment. If you think you have one, call us rather than assuming a part crosses over.
Why the frame matters for parts
Plenty of kart parts are generic. These generally are not:
- Loop rear bumpers. A rear loop has to match the mounting points and the geometry of the frame it was designed for. Close is not close enough. It either bolts up square or it does not bolt up.
- Cassettes. Bearing cassettes are matched to the frame's cassette mounting. Wrong one and you are drilling on a chassis, which is not a repair you want to be making in the pits.
- Spindles. Spindles are matched to the front end they came out of. Kingpin size, stub length and the spindle's built-in geometry all vary between frames. Substituting one changes your front end geometry whether you intended it or not.
There are more — nerf bars, seat struts, brake mounts, steering shafts and hardware can all be model-dependent. The pattern is that anything bolting to the frame at multiple points, or anything carrying suspension geometry, is a fitment question.
How to be sure which frame you have
Straight answer: we are not going to give you a list of visual tells for identifying a frame from a photo, because we would be guessing and you would be the one who paid for the guess. Frames change over production runs, and a used kart may have been repaired, updated or mixed with parts from something else. What is on the kart in your shop is what matters, not what a page says a model looks like.
What actually works:
- Call us at 864-269-8947. This is the fast way. Tell us what you have and what you need.
- Have the kart in front of you. We may ask you to measure something or look at how a specific piece is mounted. That is a two-minute conversation with the kart in the shop and an impossible one from the truck on the interstate.
- Take photos before you call. Whole kart from both sides, the front end, and the rear bumper mounts. If we ask for one you will already have it. You can also email them to hitechcaroleann@gmail.com.
- Know where the kart came from. If you bought it used, whatever the previous owner told you about the model and year is a useful starting point even if it turns out to be wrong.
- Bring the old part if you can. The part that came off is the best reference there is.
We would rather answer the phone
Nobody at this shop is annoyed by a fitment call. We would much rather spend a few minutes on the phone than have you order a rear loop that does not fit, ship it back, and miss a race in between. That is a bad outcome for you and it is a bad outcome for us.
Call 864-269-8947 during shop hours, or email hitechcaroleann@gmail.com. Hours are on our contact page and are subject to change, so call ahead.
Where to look
- Steering and front end — spindles, kingpins, steering shafts, tie rods
- Bumpers and nerf bars — loop rear bumpers, front bumpers, nerf bars
- Axles, hubs and bearings — cassettes, bearings, hubs
If you are not sure, call before you click.